a reality float

A Reality Float

This weekend I was at salsa bar in Portland. I escaped from a twirling-wonderland on the dance floor for a brief re-hydration break.

The bartender gave me the acknowledgement nod.

Me: “Agua, por fa.”

Bartender: *Weird look*

Me: “I’m sorry…. WATER, please.”

Bartender: “In a glass?”

Me: “Agua Pura, en botella.”

Bartender: “WHAT?” *disturbed now by the amount of time I was taking*

Me: “I’m sorry! Water…purified…I can’t remember what’s it’s called!”

Bartender: “In a bottle?” *raising an eyebrow in an expression that added “you freak” onto the end of his otherwise polite question*

Me: “YES! Thank you!” I gasped.

Yes. Assimilation back into American culture is on my thoughts today. If you follow this journal, you probably know that I had a lot of pre-conceived ideas about what I’d feel and think upon re-entry into this society. Well, big surprise, almost everything has turned out to be contrary to my expectations. Of course I should have known better. For anytime I think I can advance on the chess-board-of-Expectation, Life has a way of slyly making some totally unforeseen move, forcing me to toss my previously successful strategy out the window ranting “you are good for nothing!”, where upon Life confidently and mockingly proclaims “checkmate.” So after successfully adapting to “home” for one month, I’ve taken some time to reflect on a few of those self-created myths regarding my re-integration into American reality that are currently fertilizing the flowerbed outside my mental window.

Myth #1: That bouts of depression and sadness would be unavoidable and that I would constantly talk about the past year and feel frustration in being unable to covey concepts that only existed in a Central American reality.

Contrary to what I expected, I have NOT yet had a single urge to break down crying in the shower in desperation of my discontinued adventures in Central America. Neither have I had the urge to pull out my hair and run screaming to the nearest airport to purchase a ticket to Anywhere, Buthere. In fact, I am totally and completely content.

Now as I had correctly guessed, the year abroad HAS taken on a dream-like quality. Of course the capital-case BUT comes before the fact that it is a dream I remember with VIVID clarity and with lasting impact. It’s almost as if the year was filled with SO many adventures and comical moments, that I actually NEEDED this downtime in order to fully relive, re-appreciate and LAUGH over the delight they were really responsible for. Have you ever caught a stranger on the street alone, and grinning or laughing hysterically to his or herself? Well that person is me. I now regularly find myself during moments of reflective solitude (on my runs, while in my car alone, laying in bed in the morning, etc) suddenly breaking out in mad fits of laughter. So not only am I not sad, but the memories only continue to entertain and delight.

Also, in direct contradiction to my prior assumption that I would have an impossible time relating my experiences to people at home, I have found that friends and family actually DO want to hear my stories, and are VERY patient and genuine in their interest in understanding my experiences. Of course, ironically, once I got here, I didn’t really feel like talking about my experiences any more. Instead I found myself totally content with full ownership on the patents of those memories, and even so much as treasured them, just for BEING my own.

So here I am – happy. A state of being that I’m beginning to suspect is nothing but a permanent trait of my character. I give Genetics the Grammy for this overly optimistic disposition of mine knowing that my own name will probably get a mention somewhere in the thank-you speech. The only down-flaw with what I call my “prozac-perspective” is that I can’t seem to give an objective opinion on my experiences:

“What did you think of Guatemala?”

“I LOVED it!”

“What did you think of the chicken busses?”

“There were GREAT!”

“How did you like working in the dump?”

“It was AWESOME.”

Sometimes, when asked for an opinion, I neglect to realize that SOME people don’t LIKE countries with especially high crime rates. That some people don’t see rides on overcrowded and dangerous busses as adventurous. That some people aren’t comfortable working in a community filled with dangerous fumes, diseases, and gangs. Which is why when I’m asked for opinions or advice, I most often find myself simply handing over my tattered and torn Lonely Planet Guidebook.

Probably the most important falsity of the myth is that I don’t feel any immediate inclination to return to the places where all those fond memories were born. Although that time and those experiences have influenced my character development significantly and irreversibly, I am cheerfully satisfied with my performance in that Guatemalan play and find myself ready and eager to move on to my next set.

Myth #2: That the joys of new passions discovered in Central America would be nontransferable to my life in America.

As evident by the opening quotes, Central America has left ample evidence of her lasting influence on my life. Suddenly I find Spanish everywhere! It’s in the aisles in supermarkets, over loudspeakers in airports, in bookstores and magazines, on multiple television channels and certainly in conversations around every corner. This weekend alone, I had at least six conversations in Spanish with different individuals from Guatemala, Salvador and Columbia. And it’s not that I seek these people out now – no, they were always there. It’s that my eyes and ears have just been opened to awareness of their presence. Yesterday, I even attended (and was severely humbled) at an all-day Salsa workshop in Portland. And my wonderful and dear father makes sure there is an endless supply of both avocados AND mangos in the kitchen solely to appease the unrelenting appetite for these treats that I acquired in Guatemala. Unbeknownst to me, all my favorite things about Central America had smuggled themselves into my baggage looking for a little adventure abroad of their own. How silly was I to think that those newfound passions would be deterred by a four-hour flight!

Myth #3: That I would feel unchanged.

Although totally happy, nothing could have prepared me for how DIFFERENT I feel.

A year of absence from American social influences has proved enlightening, if not a bit disturbing. Suddenly I feel bombarded with pressures and demographic norms and numbers and rules as to how to live my life.

I should get married before I’m 30? I should commit to each career for 2 years before considering a change? I should have started saving for my retirement when I was in my early 20’s? I need to go to grad school? It’s best to have children when I’m young? I’m wasting money by renting instead of investing in a house? 2 weeks of vacation from work each year is enough?

Now laid before me — in a light that only a year abroad could have shed — I can see the absolutely overwhelming influences of this American society. Twenty-five years of age here directly translates to twenty five years of demanding instruction by school, family, bosses, church, magazines, doctors, friends, movies, parents, teachers, co-workers and books on what exactly it takes to be happy in life. AS WELL as the guidelines to the who’s, what’s, when’s and where’s of attaining that happiness. And although Society has some serious muscle, I certainly was never force-fed. I would say it took more of an innocent and playful “putt-putting” plane approach, coming in for such a happy landing, that I didn’t even know it was mashed peas I was being served. I’ve never considered myself particularly susceptible to societal notions of “ideal”, but I am forced to admit that this atmosphere makes me squirm. Society keeps on feedin’ and I know I no longer have any obligation to eat it. I have put my spoon down, but regardless, I am uncomfortable at this dinner table. When faced with those tiers of expectation, how can anyone feel less than a failiure? No one can live THAT life. I will happily raise my hand and declare myself defunct from that ideal right now.

So here I am. I have absolutely no desire to let any type of precious metal near the fourth finger on my left hand like 95% of my friends. And I do NOT want an American flag sticker on my car. Fancy cars hold absolutely no wow-power for me and I could care less which big shot law firm the guy sitting next to me at the bar works for. I’m in the moonless-dark when it comes to the dinner discussion lingo pertaining to house down payments, wedding registries and Italian shoes. And two weeks of vacation from work a year will never be enough.

Being age 25 in the States, and being 25 on the road, are two totally different things. On the road, I am young. In America, I am “of age to start accepting certain responsibilities.” On the road I am free of commitments. In America, without a commitment to a career or significant other, I am “not preparing for my future.” On the road, I am chasing down my dreams. In America, I appear to be “running away from responsibility.” On the road, I am opening multiple doors to new worlds of opportunity. In America, I am closing doors and “passing up opportunities that I can only take advantage of while I’m young.”

And on the road, I am surrounded by others who share my excitement for the pursuit of something different. On the road, we’re all alone, all “in between” careers, all out of our element, and all vacationing from influence. And I’m learning that as wonderful as being “independent” and “alone” and “different” are, there is still something very special about having a community of people who share your same tastes at the dining table of life.

And above all else, on “the road”, the person I agree with, the person I AM, the 25-year old that I am comfortable BEING — feels at home. There, is my table.

Of course, I had to come here again to so clearly recognize that difference.

I feel as if I’m not so much “caught” but “floating” between realities. I understand this American one, know all the rules and can play the game, and even enjoy it (after all, it wasn’t so long ago that I took it quite seriously). And as long as I learn to “play” only for the sake of “playing” (and not “winning” — whatever prize that would be) — it can be quite fun. I take my turns and watch peacefully as others take theirs but I have no real interest in this pursuit. It’s not my game. My pursuit, my “place” is not here — not now anyway. As for what reality I’m floating TO, I’m not sure, and THAT, I admit, is a bit scary. But I do know I’m more comfortable with “the float” than I am at the dinner table discussing color schemes for wedding napkins. MY place is being set at a dinner table somewhere else, amongst unknown friends, in unknown lands — where mashed peas are not on the menu. And in this transitional period, I know that place will await me patiently. As I, smiling and squirming just a little bit in my seat, continue to await my path to that table.

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small hand of home

*****

Well I have certainly found something here at home to compete with chili-ed mango and salsa dancing….

…the small hand of my sweet three-year-old niece, clutching onto mine all thru the night, as she crashed with me in my bed on the night of my return.

Home IS sweet.

*****

(Blogs documenting more adventures currently being composed.)

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and the road goes ever on and on…

And the Road Goes Ever On and On…

A little clarification…

True: I will be VERY sad (and scared) leaving Central America.

False: I dread going home.

And the difference between these two statements? Worlds.

I have NO “dread” of going home. I feel immense sadness for what I’m leaving.

“Home” doesn’t change much. But that is exactly what makes it so beautiful. How MUCH I miss my mother’s cooking! And my drives though the country with my father, and my sister and brothers…and the smiles of my beautiful new nieces and nephews, some of which I have NEVER seen. How I miss my histories with my best friends from high school and the weddings and reunions of my college roommates, and all the other life-altering events that occurred in their lives during this past year. I love home. And I will love to return home…just for the people that make it that — “home”.

My definition of “home” includes the descriptive terms: comfort, stability, warmth, peace, safety and love. Oh. Those are nice words aren’t they? So different from my last twelve months where I have traveled through six different unstable countries, held five different uncomfortable jobs, four different Spanish teachers, four different salsa instructors, lived with five different families and slept in hundreds of different beds — many of them cold and some of them unsafe. Yes, “home”, where I know and love the tastes, smells and feelings — will be very much welcomed.

More difficult to explain is why I am so sad to leave. And what exactly am I leaving? Best friends that I’ll probably, truthfully, never see again (seeing as they are also travelers from all parts of the world); intimacy with places and people that I have watched constantly change…and know will go on changing after I leave; tastes of foods that I can’t find in any restaurant or kitchen outside of Guatemala; sounds and smells that just don’t exist in the United States; the faces of the dozens of small children who continue their struggle in the city dump whilst I am warm, clean, fed and snug at home. I am leaving memories that really only exist in THIS Guatemalan reality. And this reality is SO very different from anything I have ever known. So how should I expect anyone to understand when they have not experienced it? How can I explain the smell of a tortillera? Or the taste of unripe mango with salt, lime & chili? Or describe the high in getting lost in the dips, turns and spins of salsa? Or describe the pain in my heart in response to the expression of my favorite child in the project when I told him that I was leaving…and didn’t know if I’d ever be back? I can’t. I can’t explain it. And therefore I can’t explain why I miss it. These memories and these experiences are my own. And while I love to own them all to myself, I do fear that non-understanding seriously. For two reasons. First, because I won’t be able to explain my sadness to those questioning. After all, outside of this blog, “home” knows nothing of these things, places and people…and so I can not expect my sadness to be understood. And second, because memories fade outside of their realities, and I fear losing touch with this Guatemalan reality.

Anyone remember my three months in Utila? Three months of intense island life? Of diving and barefootedness and partying and sharks and stingrays and table dancing and fish eating and non-blogging? Three months that now seem only like one long daydream. One long daydream that is already impossible for me to relate even to my friends here in Antigua. When asked about my time there, after a long sigh, I can only stutter out, “You just had to be there.”

“You just had to be there.”

It’s a lonely answer. And it’s an even lonelier feeling. And if there is anything to “dread”, it is only that feeling. I’m afraid this entire adventure will turn into one big dream, uncomprehesible to others, any maybe even uncomprehesible to myself. And we all know how dreams are! So difficult to explain! Foggy in understanding upon recall. So impossible to re-tell when your listener is bored stiff with details that mean nothing to them. Unripe mango with lemon, salt and chili? *Yawn.* Home doesn’t change much. But I have. And returning with so little physical evidence to grasp onto will be difficult. I already feel the pressure to re-conform to different (but not better or worse) standards of life and happiness. I already feel “pushed” to move on and be comfortable. So while I won’t ask for “understanding”, I will ask for patience. My adjustment will not be easy, and I will be sad. I can’t help those things. But they are not to be taken personally.

And in response to the question, “So if you are so sad, why are you leaving?”? For very good, but mostly intuitive, reasons. It’s just time. I love this place, but I know this place…and I have a kind of “personal legend” awaiting me…yet to fulfill. If I stayed in a place only because I was “happy” or “sad to leave”, I would have never left Oregon to move to Santa Clara, or from Santa Clara to San Diego, or from San Diego to here. Each place I left in tears. But my comfort comes in the reassurance that I can ALWAYS go back…but I CAN’T always go forward.

“The road goes ever on and on…until it reaches some greater way.”

“Addiction” is the word that describes best my desire for constant change and my NEED for the highs I get from a never-ending flux of new stimuli and the exploration of unknowns. I willingly admit my ongoing romance with the thrill of not knowing what tomorrow holds or what bus I will chose to jump on in the next five minutes. This is my high. And it is an addiction I refuse to jump the wagon on yet. And I would be lying if I didn’t admit that I slightly fear what consequences this addiction has for my future…. but that is an entirely different essay. My point is only that I can love “home” without being “home”. And that my absence does not, in any way, indicate less love or appreciation thereof.

Of course, none of this, and none of me, would have been possible without my family. It is only because my parents provided such a stable, safe and warm “home” — where all my needs were met, and where I never had to seek WITHIN it — that allowed me the liberty of seeking OUTSIDE of it. My parents who have updated me continually on the smile-status of my new nieces and nephews and who have made great haste to the banks, stores and post offices to send me bills, digital cameras or quickly correct errors with my bank account that otherwise would have left me stranded and penniless in more than one desperate scenario. My siblings and best friends who have only sent me the most wonderful words of encouragement throughout all my travels. My family who has *hopefully* forgiven me for my lack of attention to birthdays, anniversaries and holidays. And my family that happily receives me in the midst of my confusion and adjustment. These freedoms of heart and conscious are invaluable, and without them, I could not travel in the carefree manner that I am allowed.

And ENDLESS thanks to all those who actually read this site and/or send me letters. Because IT is the only physical thing I have to grasp on to. How I could EVER give any inch of accurate representation of my year abroad “over coffee” is inconcieveable. “You just had to be there” will have to suffice many inquisitions….but for those of you who WERE there, WITH me, my mind can smile and sigh in relief. I’m not so alone after all. And for that ease, I have you to thank.

*reads above essay*

Wow…sounds a lot like an ending, eh? But hardly. Of all the wonderful things that “travel” gives, one of the best, is NEW perspective and appreciation of OLD things and places. Every journey becomes an adventure, whether it be to Spain, the beach or to your old-highschool-best-friend’s house. (All three of which lay in my near future.) And thus, I can’t quite decide which I have more to smile about — my journeys behind or my adventures ahead.

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a message from god in hell

A Message From God in Hell

*head spins*

Where to EVEN start?

So after Cuba, I hopped bus and made my way to Tulum, Mexico. I “planned” (why do I even bother?) to arrive in the morning, do a quickly cave dive (cause it´s $$$) and high-tail my late ass back to Guate.

*record scratches*

Yeah right. So reason number ONE that I ended up staying FIVE days in Tulum can be found in the following picture:

Can you see it? White sand, beach front huts, hammocks, palm trees, crystal-clear-bathtub-warm water? *Ummmmm…*

Reason number TWO that I called in “well” to work and took 4 more days vacation? Any traveler will attest to this fact of on-the-road-life: Every once in while, when seen fit, the travel gods align the moon, earth, sun and travel itineraries of random glob trotting backpackers to bring them together under the same palm tree and *shizam!* — you have a group that bonds easily and separates with difficulty. The group broke out in hysterics each morning as I emerged from my hut and announced, “I´m REALLY gonna leave tomorrow…Seriously.” As one of the groupies described the aftermath, “I had that memory lump in my throat for days after I left.” Yup. Me too. *swallows*. (But I know you´re all having a wicked time ringin´in the New Year together. So cheers one for me guys!)

Now reason number three takes the cake…and the cookies, and the punch, and even that bowl of chocolate covered M&Ms.

Reason number THREE, of course, is the diving in the Cenotes.

Now, I sigh heavily at the idea of even TRYING to describe what was probably the most wicked and wonderful visuals of my dear eye-sight life. I heard about diving the Cenotes from some dive instructor friends of mine who I partied and dived those three months away with in the Bay Islands of Honduras. Now these guys are crazy in the first place, so when they went so far as to rank the experience above BOTH drugs AND sex and when one even went so far as to describe it as the “best 30 minutes of my life” I knew I was in for an adventure.

And I´m not the only one! Emerging from my first dive, I came out of the water last with wide eyes and a shit-eating grin to beat them all. I could just barely hold back my shouts of bewilderment. I tried to find my words….”That was…”, “Oh my God!”, “Did you see….” “INCREDIBLE!”. Suddenly a shout came from the platform, “AH! I see we have a future cave diver in our presence!” I turned to face a full set and camera crew. One of the divers from the set began quizzing me on my diving history and took FULL enjoyment in my bedazzlement with the new world I had just be de-virginized to. I was last out of the water and while the rest of my group climbed up for their surface interval, I nudged the guy next to me and asked, “If I´m REALLY quite and stay in the corner, may I please watch you film?” He smiled, said “of course!” and pointed me to a corner of the platform. Then he introduced himself. He´s Wes Skiles, one of the IMAX movie producers. The enormous camera *he pointed to it* just came back from Antarctica (and lookin like it´s worth a million bucks), and they are filming some follow-up on the recently released IMAX film “Journey Into Amazing Caves“. How lucky am I?!

SO…it´s really too difficult to put into the words what diving these Cenotes is like, which is why I am so grateful to Hidden Worlds for letting me borrow their own pictures of the first two dives I did with them: Dos Ojos and The Bat Cave (pictures 1 and 2):

&nbsp &nbsp

The pictures will have to speak for themselves, because the dive that REALLY blew me away, was sweet Angelita. (And please excuse my mid-story change of tenses….)

Angelita is a sink hole in the jungle. We tromp through to meet her in FULL gear; booties, flippers, flashlights and all. I´m first to wide step off a 15 foot ledge into her pool, and you can bet “Come on girl…what would you do if you weren´t afraid…” was turning laps in my head. Once in the water though, the heat and the mosquitos no longer nip at me and I fall back into the familiar cool as the water seeps through my wet suit. *ahhhh* NOW I feel GOOD. Let´s do it!

We descend.

I watch my depth gauge….10 ft….30 ft…..60 ft….

One of the guys has trouble equalizing his ears. The divemaster glances at me. I give him the okay sign and wave to the other diver to follow me down to the hydrogen sulfide layer where we´ll wait for them.

The hydrogen WHAT?

…60ft…80 ft….90 ft….100 ft….

The hydrogen sulfide layer… a layer of what literally is decomposition about three meters thick of which BELOW is salt water, and ABOVE is fresh water. The layers don´t mix. *Think oil and water.* Now…this is where I LOSE it.

The sulfide layer looks like earth — it´s dusty red with a thin white film swirling in, out and around it. Massive trees reach out in all directions. I immediately drop (despite what my divemaster told me) into the layer and watch my body disappear. I see the guy that I should be watching over wave a “no, no” finger at me. I laugh. I level myself out and FLY though the layer, watching it separate before my eyes. As if wearing mask-bifocals, it´s blurry on the bottom half and crystal clear on the top. I summersault and kick up the layer and giggle madly as I watch it swirl into the clear water and resettle. Now my “buddy” is watching me intensely and laughing also. Then I see it….something…something white, floating perfectly and wonderfully still. I approach it slowly, and as I do so, I think…it´s a message. It´s a message from God. I don´t know if there IS a God…but IF there is one, and if he were EVER to leave me a message – THIS is where he´d leave it. (Of course, divers begin to feel the effects of nitrogen narcosis around 100 ft — so given I AM a bit high.) The message turns out to be an O-ring holder — a small while piece of plastic in the form of an “S” — that apparently has a weight that allows for it to remain suspended perfectly between the two layers. I laugh, grab it, shove it into my wet suit, and make another flying sprint through this underwater Heaven that could only be described as looking exactly like the wastelands of “Hell”. My divemaster finally catches up and he gives up the symbol to descend through the layer.

I go last and watch the other divers sink into the ground …flippers …waist ….neck …and head. *poof* They´re gone. I´m alone. And then I drop. I can´t see ANYTHING. I´m descending, but I don´t have access to my senses. I “smell” and “taste” the rusty scent of the decomposition, but my lack of sight and sound, and my weightlessness are overwhelming.

….110 ft….

I stop my decent in the middle of the layer and allow myself to freak out. I wonder what it would be like if I continued to descend and never came out of this foggy feeling. And then I get excited about what I´ll see underneath…and I drop.

…120 ft

I emerge from the layer and it´s dark.

….130ft….140ft.

The divemaster signals for us to to turn on our flash lights. I forget that I´m in water and I imagine that I´m flying….weightlessly cruising and exploring this forest from hell. In, out, under and over. I am an aquanaut. Through the trees. Touching walls. Watching my bubbles ascend. Looking down into the REAL depths, which are rumored to house Mayan artifacts around 200 ft.

And that´s it. Yes…eventually my divemaster grabbed my arm and gave me serious eyes and the “go up” symbol. And I did…reluctantly. I´m exhausted by the time I return back to my cabana…as I am now exhausted with reliving the experience.

….150ft….160ft…200ft…the visuals and memories have found their place in the depths of my mind.

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a green belly i am

I did it! I fit my life into that pack pictured above with room to boot. But I’ve still got a hundred and one errands to run so I don’t have time to blog.

I’m not sure how I did this…but I somehow arranged for a red eye flight. I looked at my tickets last week and was like…”Departs at :40?” :40…is indeed…12:40, as in, a.m. So I’ll be chillin’ in the PDX late night today. One departing comment. The locals in Antigua *according to Lonely Planet Guatemala (the best travel guide series in Sol opinion)* are nicknamed “panza verdes” which means “green bellies” — because of their love and abundance of avocados. *avocados and strawberries are my weaknesses in life* Aw. Yeah.

I love airports. All those people who are all doing things outside of their daily rountines. Ecstatic reunions and tearful goodbyes..and then there’s this collective, and shared “feeling” *for lack of a better word*…of all these different people awaiting separate and unknown adventures. I love that energy. And my all-time favorite feeling in world? Sitting in the plane having not a clue in the world where my life is about to go…and totally freaking out about it. *grins* I’ll be there tonight.

*Wait…did I just blog? :) *

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sixteen again

“Sweet Sixteen….Again”

What is it about my parents that just brings out the worst in me? Forty-eight hours after the welcome home hugs and kisses, and I find myself slamming doors in pure aggravation. Slamming doors?! What’s that about?! I haven’t slammed a door since…..since….since I was sixteen!

My father told me four times last night before I went out that I “really needed a jacket”. My mother organized everything in my room when I turned my back for five minutes. I wonder who they think has been cleaning my room and telling me to put a jacket on for the last six years? Silly stuff. All I can really do is laugh about it, understand that they do only have the best of intentions and practice some serious patience. And I can’t give them all the credit! Being in this house magically takes years off my maturity. I mean slamming doors?! *drops head in hands in shame* I LOVE my parents and coming home….but thank God it’s only a week. It’s not that I can’t handle them….it’s that I can’t handle myself…or at least the 16 year old brat I used to be. Okay. I’m done with the rant. I’ve promised myself to replace door slamming with silent smiles of understanding….and to resist all urges to steal keys and crawl out basement windows after curfew.

************

I ran Portland’s “Shamrock Race” this morning. Only an 8k run, but I ran it in 43 minutes flat…which averages to about 8 1/2 minute miles — which is an ENORMOUS improvement from my half-marathon time. *pats self on back*

************

8 Days and Counting…

*tick, tick, tick*

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