Zip.

When it comes to politics, I’ve learned to keep my mouth SHUT.

But I will allow a few murals found on a wall in Quito to find their voice here. :)

(I’ve been taking intensive Spanish language study courses in the form of daily 9-hour shifts working as a waitress in a cafe-hostel for the last two weeks. That would be the reason for the hiccup in action on this site. BUT I got up in the middle of the night and started to compose a beast of blog love…just got to let my thoughts settle… like the froth on my capuchinos.)

(sol’s travel photos) (about sol) (some sol stories) (LeapNow.org) (travel disclaimer) (packing list)

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Past and Present Tense

“Okay. Let’s move on to conversation. Tell me what you did this morning before coming here. Try to use complete sentences that are in the past tense.”

He puts down the book of the “4 Noble Truths” that he’s been reading aloud from and nods his head in agreement. He looks out over the balcony to find his words.

“Um. Okay. Yes. This morning, I made prayers…”

“What is the past tense of “to pray” Sonam?”

“Hum. Um. Prayed. Yes. This morning I prayed. And then I went to houses in the villages and prayed with families. And then I learned English.”

“You studied English?”

“Um. Yes. I STUDIED English. And I did my homework so that my nice and pretty teacher will be happy and so that I learn good English.”

I giggle and he immediately throws his robe over his head, which sends me crashing on yet another wave of verbalized delight.

He peeks out from under the robe to see if the coast is clear. But I’m still giggling and so an arm protrudes from the mass of maroon robes and he pokes me in the arm, “Why do you laugh at me? Please teacher, don’t laugh! You stop, will you! Please stop!”

(On the first day that I arrived in McLeod Ganj *home of the exiled Tibetan Government* I met Sonam on the street, a 33-year-old refugee Tibetan monk. We started talking and I offered to teach him English every day in exchange for tea.)

He throws the robe over his head again and a muffled voice from underneath escapes and begs for me to stop. Everything about this image brings me pure joy. It’s so hard to repress the delight his every gesture brings me. But with determination, I tuck my smile away, clear my throat of chuckles, and encourage him to come out of his robes…

“I’m sorry Sonam. Please come out. Come on. Now tell me in the past tense some things about your life in Tibet.”

One squinted eye appears and then he slowly emerges from the cloak.

“Um. Okay. In Tibet I lived in monastery. I became monk when I had 15 years. In Tibet, I never go to school. The Chinese do not let Tibetans go to school. Many Chinese in Tibet. They don’t let us do many things. Not allowed to put a picture of the Dalai Lama on my wall. Even if I not have picture of Dalai Lama, if they think you make prayers for Dalai Lama, you get beating. Many people beatings. Many, MANY people die. The Chinese break my monastery. So I escaped.”

“You escaped?”

“Yes. Three years ago. I leave my family. We walked for many weeks. Over the mountains. In beginning we had food. But not carry much. Could not carry much. And then we had no food. Sometimes we get one hand of rice. I eat rice…not cooked, just rice…I eat out of my hand and then I walk until I fall down. No energy. Many times could not walk. We sleep during day and walk at night so Chinese don’t see us. Many weeks walking. Very, very hard. All our shoes rip. We use rope to tie together. Yes. Very, very, hard. But Chinese not to find me. I escaped.”

He looks up from his shoes and says, “Teacher. You want to see homework? I wrote questions for you!”

He opens up his notebook and proudly pushes it over to me.

I read his questions aloud;

“What do people do in your country?”

“What will you do in your life?”

“Why people not have compassion?”

I look up at him and he smiles with a warmness that melts my very being.

“These are good questions, Sonam. These are very good questions.”

*****

“In May 1949, the newly established communist government of China decided to “liberate” the downtrodden Tibetan masses by taking over the country. The Chinese People’s Army marched into Lhasa beginning a brutal regime which has left over 1.2 million Tibetans dead and countless others imprisoned in forced-labor camps. Since 1949, some 90% of the nation’s religious institutions have been destroyed in the name of the Revolution and any pro-independence spark has been snuffed out.

Fearing for his life and those of his people, the spiritual leader of Tibet, His Holiness the 14th Dalai Lama, Tenzin Gyatso, walked over the Himalayas to take refuge in Dharmasala (below McLeod Ganj) India where the Tibetan Government was granted political asylum.

China, to this day, has resisted all attempts at dialogue over the Tibet issue. With Western nations relaxing their attitudes towards China, many now fear for the future of the Free Tibet Movement.” – Lonely Planet India

(sol’s travel photos) (about sol) (some sol stories) (LeapNow.org)

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Sleepless

Journal Entry

March 31st, 2004

Rishikesh, India

Volunteering at Ramana’s Garden Orphanage

I can’t sleep.

There’s a light inside my head that won’t stop flickering. It keeps me tossing and turning in search for the darkness that used to let me rest in peace.

The ideas that flash across my mind are the trailing sentences from conversations today…

The light flickers and I turn.

“…she can’t tell you how old she is because she doesn’t know. She’s new to our orphanage. She is a refugee from Nepal. Her father killed her mother and then prostituted the children. She was found stranded in their house in the woods. No one knows what happened to her brothers and sisters. We think that she might be nine years old…”

The light flickers and I toss.

“…we have to grow all our own vegetables here. We have no other choice. The vegetables grown by the Indian farmers are not safe to consume. When DDT pesticides were recognized as seriously poisonous and became illegal in the United States, no restrictions were put on the US manufactures on how to dispose of them. So they sold them to third world countries where there were no safety standards. The farmers here are completely uneducated as to the dangers of the pesticides. They only see that they work. They weren’t even properly informed on its need to be diluted. I’ve seen farmers take the amount that would normally be used on acres of land and sprinkle the deadly chemicals undiluted, directly onto their crops. The vegetables are poisonous. And these are the crops that are sold in the market.”

The light flickers and I open my eyes and stare blindly at the wall.

“…we used to move the children up to the mountains in May. But we had only one month of winter this year. The temperature has been steadily rising for years, but this is incredible. It’s only March and the kids are already sick from heat stroke and exhaustion. In combination with the pollution in the air, their skin literally boils. We have to move them up to the mountains as soon as possible. But without the winter, even the mountains are dry. Forest fires are already consuming it. And the great glaciers of the Himalayas are melting. They won’t be around much longer. Why? Because of global warming of course….”

The light flickers and I throw my sleeping bag over my head.

“….water is scarce and Coca Cola, Pepsi, Fanta and all the big soda manufactures are tapping majority shares of what’s left of ground water sources while the wells dry up and the people go thirsty…”

The light flickers and I sit up in bed.

“…one day twenty children, refugees from Nepal brought from across the border, just showed up on our doorstep. We don’t know their history. But what could we do? That’s when we became an orphanage…”

The light flickers and I put my hands over my face.

“…many of these children have one parent living, but they can’t live with them. Sometimes the father has killed the mother. But they don’t really have laws against that kind of thing here. And the Nepalese refugees are exploited. They are forced to take the harshest jobs — often of construction. The men cut concrete and bricks. The woman haul it on their heads. They work all daylight hours. They haven’t the time, resources or choice to care for these children….”

The light flickers on and off.

I toss and turn.

And finally, without the comfort of a lullaby, the lyrics of the song the children all sang together before going to bed begin to cycle through my head in more open-ended sentences…

How many times must a man look up — before he can see the sky?

And how many ears must one man have — before he can hear, he can cry?

How many deaths will it take till he knows — that too many people have died?

How many years can a mountain exist — before it is washed to the sea?

How many years can some people exist — before they’re allowed to be free?

How many times can a man turn his head — and pretend that he just doesn’t see?

The light flickers on and off.

I can’t close my eyes.

I can’t sleep.

*****

If YOU would like to sponsor a child or otherwise help Ramana’s Garden Orphanage, you can find information on how to do so by going to: www.sayyesnow.org.

seeking sleep,

sol

(sol’s travel photos) (about sol) (some sol stories) (LeapNow.org)

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Put in My Place

In my distress of the war, I emailed a very good friend and both complained to her about “my” country and asked to her to give me some shread of hope to hold onto.

Her reply follows;

About Americans – what do you want to say to them? – If you could say anything at all? Here’s what I picture you saying — sometimes it helps to really get it out…

AMERICAN speaking to YOU:

Damn it Sol, those Muslims are fucking up the world!

YOU speaking to an AMERICAN:

Jesus Christ! Don’t you know you shouldn’t make assumptions about other people without REALLY listening to them (not listening through a filter of “you’re wrong, I’m better” – really LISTENING), don’t you know you should sit down face to face and TALK about it? And that if you did you’d realize that those are PEOPLE over there inside those imaginary lines. People just like you and me – people who care about their children and their livelihood and only want happiness and safety and LOVE. And you’d also see PEOPLE who are SCARED to death that someone will come into their country or their neighborhood or their home and destroy all that matters to them? And that the reason they are scared is because it has happened before — that everyone has been hurt, and hurt badly — by someone from another country, or village — or even by someone within their own home. No one is free of hurt – no one on the planet is free of pain. Of course the natural (human) reaction to fear and pain is to put up a defense and fight back. That is why they feel like the have to resort to violence at times.

AMERICANS speaking back to YOU:

Exactly – they resorted to hate and violence. They shouldn’t do that — we need to punish them with more hate.

YOU to the AMERICAN:

NO, no – that is the last thing we need to do. When we hate them for hating us the cycle continues – to no end.

AMERICAN:

But they started it!

YOU:

What?? How old are you? They are just people – human beings. If you want to talk about who started it forever just look at the mess in Isreal – obviously that isn’t working. The only thing to do is to stop creating discord between human beings no matter what. Have you ever heard of a little something called UNCONDITIONAL LOVE. I think Gandhi and Martin Luther King knew a little something about that.

AMERICAN:

That’s impossible – it’ll never happen.

YOU:

I can give you something that will make it happen. I’ll tell you a little secret about TRUTH but only if you promise to pair it with UNCONDITIONAL LOVE.

Because TRUTH paired with UNCONDITIONAL LOVE is what is really, truly needed in the world right now.

Don’t get me wrong – unconditional love is really fucking hard (in fact, it is perfect, you’ll never get there). But the way to get close is to recognize thoughts of hate or discord when they come to mind and say “thanks for your input but no thanks.” Doing that moment to moment is how you break the cycle – you start with you – it is a constant meditation – at recognizing your own degree of hate and LETTING GO.

And when one whose heart is full of unconditional love takes up the banner of truth, he/she is unstoppable. — That is the challenge I give you.

——————– Now read this version of the conversation — read ALL the way to the end WITHOUT STOPPING.

YOU speaking to ME:

Damn it Sarah, the Americans are fucking up the world!

ME speaking to YOU:

Jesus Christ! Don’t you know you shouldn’t make assumptions about other people without REALLY listening to them (not listening through a filter of “you’re wrong, I’m better” – really LISTENING), don’t you know you should sit down face to face and TALK about it? And that if you did you’d realize that those are PEOPLE over there inside those imaginary lines. People just like you and me – people who care about their children and their livelihood and only want happiness and safety and LOVE. And you’d also see PEOPLE who are SCARED to death that someone will come into their country or their neighborhood or their home and destroy all that matters to them? And that the reason they are scared is because it has happened before — that everyone has been hurt, and hurt badly — by someone from another country, or village — or even by someone within their own home. No one is free of hurt – no one on the planet is free of pain. Of course the natural (human) reaction to fear and pain is to put up a defense and fight back. That is why they feel like the have to resort to violence at times.

YOU speaking to ME:

Exactly – they resorted to hate and violence. They shouldn’t do that — we need to punish them with more hate.

ME speaking to YOU:

NO, no – that is the last thing we need to do. When we hate them for hating us the cycle continues – to no end.

YOU:

But they started it!

ME:

What?? How old are you? They are just people – human beings. If you want to talk about who started it forever just look at the mess in Isreal – obviously that isn’t working. The only thing to do is to stop creating discord between human beings no matter what. Have you ever heard of a little something called UNCONDITIONAL LOVE. I think Gandhi and Martin Luther King knew a little something about that.

YOU:

That’s impossible, it’ll never happen.

ME:

I’ll tell you a little secret about TRUTH but only if you promise to pair it with UNCONDITIONAL LOVE.

Because TRUTH paired with UNCONDITIONAL LOVE is what is really, truly needed in the world right now.

Don’t get me wrong – unconditional love is really fucking hard (in fact, it is perfect, you’ll never get there). But the way to get close is to recognize thoughts of hate or discord when they come to mind and say “thanks for your input but no thanks.” Doing that moment to moment is how you break the cycle – you start with you – it is a constant meditation – at recognizing your own degree of hate and LETTING GO.

And when one whose heart is full of unconditional love takes up the banner of truth, he/she is unstoppable. — That is the challenge I give you.

Dear Sarah,

You´ve made my life lighter.

…and my world more peaceful.

I promise to deny the cycle of Hate my energy…

… and to forgive the Muslims, America and myself every single day.

With unconditional love,

sol

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broken

Has the USA gone COMPLETELY MAD?!?¡!?

Yahoo News: US Drops 1-Ton Bombs on Iraq

“A pair of 2,000-pound satellite-guided bombs were dropped late Tuesday near Baqouba, 30 miles northeast of Baghdad, on “camps suspected to have been used for bomb-making,” said Maj. Gordon Tate, a spokesman for the 4th Infantry Division.

Near the northern city of Kirkuk, fighter-bombers dropped 1,000-pound bombs on “terrorist targets,” he said without elaborating.

It was unclear whether the airstrikes caused any casualties, Tate said.

The military said the bombings were part of Operation Iron Hammer, the new aggressive tactic of initiating attacks against insurgents before they strike.”

Has the government gone Mad to order it?

Has the Media gone Mad to report it as such?

Have the American people gone Mad to let it continue?

The thread of faith I had in my country has broken.

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Tonight in Guatemala

….after 80% of the country put in its vote, my host family huddles around the television and awaits the result…

My fingers and mind cross at the idea that there actually exists a chance that the same man who carried out the “scorched earth” counterinsurgency campaign 20 years ago, and is essentially the mastermind of an attempted genocide of the indigenous population of Guatemala, is actually running 3rd place in the presidential election — for which we will learn the results tonight.

My house “parents” showed me their blackened thumbs that identify them as having already put in the one vote they are each allowed.

In a race where 30 people have already been murdered in relation to the presidential election (and in connection to the suspiciously un-connectable, Rios Montt) — I wonder whose hands should actually be painted.

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Time to re-join the huddle.

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Understanding the Ignorant American

After years of shaking my head in bewilderment, a piece of the Truth puzzle FINALLY gets found from under the table.

When I read this article I could not stop throwing my fist down in excitement and appall at the revelations within.

If there were one piece that I wish every single American in the States would read with an open-mind, it would be the following one.

*****

What Americans Know

by Andrew Gumbel

With His Six-year-old Son Enrolled in Californian State School, Andrew Gumbel Finds its Roots in a Conformist Education System Ill at Ease with Dissent or Critical Thought

by Andrew Gumbel

Sooner or later, anyone who lives abroad reaches a defining moment when the desire to understand and fit into the foreign culture hits a brick wall of absolute resistance. In my case, living in California, it came a few weeks ago at my son’s elementary school open house. The first-grade classroom was transformed into a showcase of art projects, spelling bees and mini-science workshops on the life cycle of insects. So far, so good. But then the children of Room 63 started to sing, and my internal refusal mechanism went haywire. In unison, they launched into “America I Love You”:

It’s your land, it’s my land,

A great do or die land,

And that’s just why I sing:

America, I love you!

From all sorts of places,

They welcomed all the races

To settle on their shore.

They didn’t care which one,

The poor or the rich one,

They still had room for more.

To give them protection

By popular election,

A set of laws they chose.

They’re your laws and my laws,

For your cause and my cause.

That’s why this country rose.

Granted, I’m not a big fan of patriotic sentiment in any context. But this got my goat in ways I just couldn’t shake. First, there was the niggly matter of historical accuracy. (What are black, Asian or Native Americans supposed to make of that line about welcoming all the races?) One also had to question the dubious taste of singing about a “do or die land” in the wake of a controversial war in Iraq that many parents in our liberal corner of Santa Monica had passionately opposed. What really riled me, though, was that the song had absolutely nothing to do with education. The words were lousy, and the music wasn’t a lot better. It bore no relation to the rest of the classwork on display. So what was it doing there? I might have understood better if my son’s teacher were some raving flag-waving patriot, but she isn’t. She, and the other parents, beamed proudly and generally acted as if the song were a normal part of the American school experience.

Which, as I quickly discovered, it is. Patriotic songs are sung up and down classrooms at Grant Elementary, just as they are at every other school in the land. Mostly, they go without challenge or critical examination. In third grade, for example, the daughter of a friend of mine merrily sang her way through “It’s a Grand Old Flag”, which includes the lines: “Every heart beats true/’neath the Red, White and Blue, /Where there’s never a boast or brag …” Her father, an old Sixties radical who doesn’t like to keep quiet about these things, gently asked her when they got home whether the whole song wasn’t in fact a boast and a brag. His daughter went very quiet as she thought through the implications of his question. Challenging received wisdom in this way is something she never encounters in the classroom.

Even after five years in the United States, I continue to be surprised by the omnipresence of patriotic conformism. This phenomenon long predates 11 September. When my son started playing baseball this year, he and his friends were made to recite the Little League pledge which begins: “I trust in God. I love my country and respect its laws.” What has that got to do with sportsmanship? When, a few weeks later, he and I went to see our first ball game at Dodger Stadium, I was flabbergasted all over again when the crowd rose to sing the national anthem. This was just a routine game, not an international fixture. So what was with all the flag-waving?

With my son’s education at stake, I can’t help but ponder the link between what is fed to children as young as six and what American adults end up understanding about the wider world. There is much that is admirable in the unique brand of idealism that drives American society, with its unshakable belief in the constitutional principles of freedom and limitless opportunity. Too often, though, the idealism becomes a smokescreen concealing the uglier realities of the United States and the way it throws its economic, political and military weight around the globe. Children are recruited from the very start of their school careers to believe in Team America, whose oft-repeated mantra is: we’re the good guys, we always strive to do the right thing, we live in the greatest country in the world. No other point of view, no other cultural mindset, is ever seriously contemplated. Schoolroom maps of North America detail city names, roads and rivers within the continental United States, but invariably leave the areas within Canada and Mexico blank, as though reality itself stopped at the national border.

People love to beat up on Americans for their ignorance of the wider world, and there is no lack of evidence to back them up. Every now and again, a gob-smacking poll will reveal that most of the population can’t place the Middle East on the map, or think that Africa is part of Asia, or some similar nonsense. Ignorance is not, of course, an exclusively American vice, but there is something goofily compelling about its expression in so deeply insular a country as the United States. I spent the period between the fall of the Berlin Wall and the reunification of Germany reporting for an international news agency; nine months into the year-long assignment, I learned that most US newspaper readers had no notion that East and West Germany had ever been divided.

In the recent build-up to the war in Iraq, a majority of Americans had no problem accepting two fallacious contentions put forward by the Bush administration: that Iraq had a hand in 11 September, and that Saddam Hussein was in cahoots with al-Qa’ida. Many lefty anti-war protesters saw this as evidence of a sinister manipulation by the White House, a glaring instance of the Big Lie theory of propaganda: that if governments – aided and abetted by a pliant, uncritical media – say something often enough and loud enough, people will believe it.

But I heard an even more pessimistic explanation from Hussein Ibish of the Arab American Anti-Discrimination Committee. Americans, he said, have been so ground down by decades of negative imagery from films and television depicting Middle Easterners as religious extremists and terrorists that they are simply unable to make distinctions. In their eyes, Saddam Hussein is Osama bin Laden. All Palestinians are suicide bombers. The demonization was the same when the Vietnamese were tarred as “gooks” a generation ago; in America, there is nothing difficult about peddling stereotypical distortions of the enemy of the moment.

The United States is far from a monolith, though, and it has no lack of bright, inquisitive, well-read, well-traveled people who know their Slovakia from their Slovenia, who care deeply about the United States’ image around the world and like to think they help improve it. Even this super-educated group, however, is not immune to the Team America ethic. If US voters largely fell in line over the Iraq war – despite widespread disquiet at the lack of UN support, despite alarm at the new doctrine of pre-emptive warfare, despite suspicions that the administration was exaggerating or fabricating claims about Saddam’s weapons programs – it was in part because too many people with the knowledge and intelligence to ask tough questions chose to roll over, drop their criticisms, ignore the evidence before their eyes and cheer on the home team.

Two examples. On 19 March, the day the war with Iraq began, two experts in child psychology appeared on a highly regarded radio show in southern California to talk about the best way parents should explain world events to their impressionable offspring. Betsy Brown Braun, a child development specialist, acknowledged the difficulty of justifying the morality of warfare to children forever being told to resolve their differences without resorting to violence. But her solution was simply to defer to the official line. Parents, she said, should explain that “we tried to talk to people in Iraq”, but that this is “a dangerous situation that has to be stopped”. “Think what you will about President Bush,” she went on, “it is our job to let our children know that President Bush’s number one concern is that everyone who lives in this United States is safe, that we’re not trying to hurt anybody, that we want to keep all the people in the world safe.”

The other guest on the show, clinical psychologist Richard Sherman, concurred. “We all need to be united,” he said. “I think it’s important that children in the families are supportive of what is going on. It avoids confusion for the child and additional worry and nightmares and so forth if everyone is working as a team.” Was this sound professional advice, or grandstanding for the White House? Astonishingly, when challenged by irate listeners in the call-in segment of the program, both experts expressed their personal opposition to the war and agreed, contrary to the message they were urging parents to give children, that non-military options had not in fact been exhausted. In other words, they thought it better to lie and pretend everything was dandy rather than entertain the possibility that the US government was making bad choices for its citizens and the world.

Example number two cropped up in The New Yorker, in a review of post-11 September literature by the well-regarded author and historian Louis Menand. Among the geopolitical interpretations he considered was Noam Chomsky’s – as ignored by mainstream US opinion as it is revered on university campuses at home and abroad – in which US foreign policy is seen not as a force for global democratization but as a blunt instrument of neo-imperialist conquest and corporate expansionism. It was possible, Menand allowed, that “Chomsky’s interpretation will be the standard one among historians a hundred years from now”. But then his argument took on an almost surreal twist. Chomsky’s views, he said, were “a good reason never to worry about what future historians will think of us: they’ll despise us no matter what. It’s what we think of us that we need to be concerned about.” I had to read that last sentence twice to be sure I had understood it right. But there it was: it’s better to live in collective self-delusion, in Menand’s view, than to face up to reality. Or, as Kurt Vonnegut slyly pointed out in Breakfast of Champions, written in the midst of the neo-imperialist folly in Vietnam: “It was as though the country were saying to its citizens, ‘In nonsense is strength’.”

The nonsense is instilled from an early age, by a school system that both reflects and reinforces the United States’ societal desire to see itself in terms of what it should or could be, not in terms of what it is. Subjects constituting knowledge of the wider world – history, geography, economics, comparative religion, and so on – are clumped together and termed “social studies”, an area of education with a distinct and rather peculiar cultural connotation. Which is to say it is a bit of a joke, an easy option for school sports coaches who need some back-up skill to carry out their classroom duties. In elementary and middle school, there is no requirement for specialist qualifications; history and geography are taught by general class teachers, so it is pure luck whether students actually learn something or just doze their way through the assigned textbooks. In high school there are dedicated history and geography teachers, some of whom do indeed give off sparks of genuine passion and commitment. Too often, though, social studies are used as a dumping ground. Students end up either with the basketball coach or else with some spare administrator kicked into the classroom to fill a bureaucratic hole. No wonder high school seniors consistently score worse in history than in any other subject.

The curriculum itself displays a similar lack of seriousness. In California, for example, no history or geography is introduced until the fourth grade (that is, age 9), and there is no exposure to the contemporary world outside the United States until high school. Even in the upper grades, most students will focus on 20th century US history, economics and US government institutions. So it is entirely possible to graduate from the school system, perhaps even excel academically, while barely knowing that the rest of the world exists.

The problem is not only with what is taught, but also how. In a hair-raising recent book called The Language Police: How Pressure Groups Restrict What Students Learn, a seasoned education specialist and sometime presidential adviser called Diane Ravitch chronicles how the censorial impulses of both the right and left conspire to bleed the content, and the life, out of school textbooks. Because the US textbook market is dominated by just four companies – Pearson, Vivendi, Reed Elsevier and McGraw Hill – and because they are terrified of having their titles dropped over some tiny unnoticed tidbit that some buyer somewhere deems to be offensive, the whole educational system is effectively hijacked by fundamentalist Christians at one end of the spectrum, and by politically correct left-liberals at the other. It might seem impossible to keep both of these happy at the same time, but that is exactly what the various “bias review” committees of the publishing houses set out to do, with crazy consequences. Out go references to dinosaurs (which might be considered an implicit recognition of Darwinian evolutionary theory); out go descriptions of extramarital sexual attraction, nudity, drinking, gambling, smoking and all mention of God, Satan or the occult; out go descriptions of black people who are petty criminals or on food stamps, or of Asian Americans who work hard (all of which would pander to racial stereotype); out go depictions of old people who are frail, or women who stay home to raise their children (gender stereotyping); out goes any suggestion that physical disability could be a noticeable hindrance of any kind.

As Ravitch argues, the right is interested in censoring topics, while the left wants to control language and images. For both, the intention is to try to engineer social behavior by creating a hermetic bubble around the learning environment. The right believes that avoiding descriptions of bad behavior on the page will led to more moral behavior in real life; the left believes that describing an ideal society without prejudice or poverty will help bring it about. Either way, the purpose of education is betrayed because children are simply denied access to reality. And the students don’t buy it; they are simply bored to tears.

Nowhere is the conflict-free approach more absurd than in the teaching of history. Since religion is a hot potato that nobody wants to confront head on, the great religious wars of the past are explained away as though they were about something else entirely. Thus, the Crusades come off primarily as a European grab for the jewelry and spices of Asia. Modern notions of acceptable language and behavior are, more generally, allowed to intrude into the retelling of the past in absurd ways, as Ravitch discovered when she served on a committee compiling standardized test exams. One passage they considered, about class differences in ancient Egypt, was expunged on the grounds that any discussion of class difference, past or present, was “elitist”. Another, about a School for Negro Girls in early 20th century Florida, was rejected because the word “negro”, although perfectly acceptable in the context, is no longer considered PC. In fact all but the most recent texts are usually considered unacceptable because, as the president of one publishing company told Ravitch: “Everything written before 1970 was either gender biased or racially biased.” If the system does not like the historical record, it has no hesitation in simply rewriting it.

The manipulation of education is more subtle and, arguably, more insidious than it was 50 years ago at the height of the Cold War and the great Red Scare. Then, the battle for hearts and minds was about the straightforward exclusion of certain books and topics in pursuit of a political agenda. Groups like the Minute Women lobbied ceaselessly against communism, socialism, socialized medicine and racial integration, arguing that schoolchildren were being brainwashed into believing in them.

These days, the issue is no longer banning books, even if that still goes on in parts of the heartland dominated by the Christian right, but rather systemic conformism. It used to be that an inspiring teacher could overcome the shortcomings of bland textbooks and blinkered administrative madness. But with the curriculum now much more closely defined and homogenized, textbooks designed for an ever wider audience and standardized testing on the increase, teachers are finding their leeway severely restricted. To a great degree, they have to teach to the test. And, since the test takes the form of multiple-choice questions, not essays, they are effectively forced into complicity with the textbook pretence that every historical struggle has now been settled and can be summarized in a few soothing lines of near-meaningless analytical blancmange.

None of this is cheery news to people in the education business. “The system we have is not one of enlightenment, but one of indoctrination,” I was told by Daniel O’Connor, a specialist in the politics of education and chair of the department of liberal studies at the Long Beach campus of California State University. “Development of inquisitive minds is not what they are after. Where is the room for inquisitiveness on the part of the student when what is required is to get the answer right? Inquisitiveness is about questions, not answers.” It is not just the school system which conspires to dampen the students’ curiosity about the wider world, O’Connor suggested. Parents, especially middle-class parents, are increasingly concerned about shielding their offspring from what they see as pernicious or disturbing influences at school – anything from drugs on the playground to uncomfortable concepts being bandied around the classroom.

Just sending children off to school in the first place is a traumatic decision in a society where the pressure, increasingly, is to hold them back as long as possible to spare them any unnecessary stress. Parents are much more involved in the classroom than they used to be – partly the result of cuts in education, partly the result of the trend toward over-protectiveness – and so keep an eye on teachers to ensure they do nothing untoward or upsetting to their loved ones. In conservative parts of the country, this can lead to teachers being sued for saying anything too outspoken about politics or Darwinian evolution, or for assigning novels whose content is deemed to be unpatriotic, socially subversive or obscene. Even in liberal towns like Santa Monica, the constant surveillance has its effect. The emphasis in education is no longer on training children to be adults; it is, as O’Connor put it, about keeping students in a “child-like” state of blessed ignorance.

To find out how much a typical high school graduate actually knew, I talked to Charles Noble, the head of Cal State Long Beach’s political science department who has been teaching first-year classes for years. Clearly, we are not talking Harvard or Stanford here. But these are still students enrolled at a four-year college course, putting them in the top 30 per cent of Californian school-leavers. One might also think taking political science classes would indicate an inherent interest. If the interest is there, however, it is pushed far into the shadows by blank fear. “They are so intimidated by political discourse, they feel certain they don’t understand anything,” Noble said. “If you ask them for an opinion, most of the time they won’t tell you what they think. Even if they do, they almost apologize for having a view. On the rare occasion that a student is actually passionate, the others in class will roll their eyes.”

Students, Noble said, complain that politics is too hard to understand, to which he retorts that if they can master the intricacies of baseball they shouldn’t have too much trouble with the rules of elections, law-making and executive office. “I spend a lot of time convincing them that it is comprehensible,” he said. “They sometimes look at us as if our role as teachers was to make them feel bad. Usually, at the start of the year, I just put it on the table and say, ‘You don’t know anything about this subject and you think I’m going to spend 15 weeks making you feel foolish about your ignorance.’” That usually gets their attention, at which point he can begin to explain how something as ordinary as membership of the Automobile Association affects political decisions – on road construction, vehicle tax rates and so on.

College is traditionally the time of life when Americans get politicized. Among my well-educated, well-traveled, liberal-minded neighbors in Santa Monica, many have described the scales falling from their eyes as they came to understand, after years of listening to pap about freedom and apple pie, how American power really operated in the world. That politicization is still alive and well on more prestigious campuses where both the pro-Bush right and the dissenting left have been re-energized in the wake of 11 September. The evidence of Cal State Long Beach, however, suggests that further down, in the state universities and community colleges, young people are growing more apolitical. Noble said that a few years ago there were usually one or two environmental activists in his classes; these days, the only signs of political life come from religious anti-abortion advocates. The essential problem, in Noble’s view, is a society that has lost touch with its own system of government. “How do you talk politically,” he asks, “in a country that has no political culture?”

In the immediate aftermath of 11 September, many Americans were seized by a thirst to know what was behind the destruction at the Pentagon and the World Trade Center. “Here we are under devastating attack,” said a participant at a teach-in I attended, one of dozens that sprang up in California alone in the first few weeks, “and we have no idea who did this thing and why.” College professors and other experts eagerly came forward to initiate discussion on everything from US policy in the Middle East and Afghanistan to the wellsprings of the very ignorance that had caught the country so badly by surprise.

As time went by, however, the desire for understanding gave way to a more visceral craving for reassurance. Tell us the world won’t blow up tomorrow, people thought as anthrax-laced letters hit the eastern seaboard and the now-ubiquitous phrase “weapons of mass destruction” entered the popular lexicon. Tell us US power is still worth something. Tell us our way of life is not going to come to an end. On such insecurities did the Bush administration build its War on Terror, with its imagery of good versus evil, its with-us-or-against-us attitude, and its insistence that US military might, not the old international consensus, should be the centerpiece of a new world order.

The President said 11 September happened because people who resented US freedoms wanted to prevent their spread around the world. And an unnerved country was inclined to believe him, because he cast America as a lone, heroic colossus whose sacrifices could be borne with forbearance, even joy. How much more reassuring than the possibility that the United States had in fact betrayed its own democratic principles by doing business with tyrants and monsters, and withheld from whole populations the very freedoms and elemental notions of justice it prized so much at home.

Soon, all the worst, self-deluding impulses of Team America kicked in. The mainstream media gave the White House the benefit of the doubt on just about everything, even as the administration instituted a wave of secret arrests and closed court hearings, reserved the right to remove whole categories of suspects from the civilian justice system, jacked up the military budget without establishing an adequate fund for domestic security, tore up international treaties and pushed for a whole new generation of nuclear weapons. Nobody seemed to want to believe that these things were happening, or if they were that they were really as grave as they sounded.

And the same soothing message, the same drip-feed of political Prozac, found its way quickly into the education system. Trust the President and everything will be okay. Educators sent notes home to parents on how to deal with the aftermath of 11 September, but not on how to explain why it had happened. Rather, they recommended close parental supervision of television newscasts to make sure nobody got upset. Educational books appeared, purporting to tell schoolchildren what they need to know about 11 September. But mostly they were filled with meaningless platitudes about Americans being united by patriotism and the firm belief that terrorism is a Bad Thing.

The ignorance and self-delusion have been compounded by the deep-seated anti-intellectualism of the current President. Intellectuals have never exactly been popular in US politics, but George W Bush, a C student and proud of it, is in a category of his own when it comes to disregarding or even openly campaigning against objective reality. Manipulating intelligence reports on Iraq isn’t much of a stretch for an administration that ignores scientific research on global warming, or insists on a link between abortion and breast cancer, even though no such link has been found. The Christian fundamentalist agenda is so strong that AIDS researchers at the National Institutes of Health are now afraid of using words like “homosexual”, “gay” or “anal sex” in their work. As one scientist advised his colleagues in an e-mail quoted by The New York Times: “Assume you are living in Stalinist Russia when communicating with the United States government.”

Ignorance, self-delusion, free-floating disregard for the facts and an unswerving belief in its own infallibility: such are the hallmarks of today’s America. People don’t understand what their government is up to because they don’t understand how government works and because the media isn’t giving them any clues. Those responsible for the country’s education prefer to avoid giving offence than to impart any actual information. The disconnect between the people and the rulers they elect, and between the rulers and those most directly affected by the consequences of their actions, is little short of frightening. A glimpse into history suggests empires often build up these illusory images of themselves, images that through their deceptive power eventually conspire to bring them down. It happened to the Romans, and to the Japanese, and to the Soviet empire. Could the United States be so very different?

© 2003 Independent Digital (UK) Ltd

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silence the voices please

Whew. Took a minute to breeze through the Yahoo News headlines today and came to the conclusion that I really don’t need those voices in my head. They only speak of death, predudice, ignorance, arrogance, insecurity and fear. (Relevent to that fact is that I’ve decided that I will remain abroad as long as the Bush “administration” is in power.) But the good news?! The 80′s are back! Bring on the legwarmers!

New pictures in the Portugal Album.

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NO A LA GUERRA

Well “crash for a few” turned into a 19 hour siesta. My head hit the pillow at 3:00 in the afternoon and my feet didn´t hit the floor again till 10:00 the next morning. I don´t think I´ve ever slept so much in my life. I walked in a daze for half the day, but am finally finding myself in a state of high alert tonight. And how could I not…amidst the pure power and passion of the tens of thousands of protesters who´ve closed down the streets of Madrid (including the one outside my hostel) waving banners, singing songs, painting windows, tagging monuments, and banging drums all to the pulse of “NO A LA GUERRA! NO A LA GUERRA!”.

I chant with them, sending my silent prayers of thanks that I am not recognized for the American I am. For I am certainly not oblivious to the thousands of signs that read, ¨Without the States, there is no war.”, “BAN BU$H”, “NO BLOOD FOR OIL AMERICA!”, “BUSH = HITLER”, “TERROR U$A.” And the countless banners depicting “peace doves” being shot down with missiles by “American eagles” and American flags with crossbones and blood dripping from them. And it certainly does not go without notice that the McDonalds and the KFC´s windows are spraypainted in large red and black letters with “BOYCOTT CAPITALIST AMERICA!” I´m so embarrassed, I have to fight off the tears.

And then I go back to my room, and I turn on the television, and I see the live cameras from Baghdad. And somewhere deep inside….I hear — I FEEL — the cries of innocent people dying. And I can´t fight the tears anymore. For to me, there is NO difference between the child that was killed in the daycare center at the bottom of one of the twin towers and the child that is dying — at this very moment — on the streets of Baghdad. Except for that the child in Bahgdad bears too much of a resemblance to the beautiful, but brusied and malnurished face of every child I met in the Dumpster of Guatemala City. And I can fight no longer.

I cry.

*****

“Beware the leader who bangs the drums of war in order to whip the citizenry

into a patriotic fervor, for patriotism is indeed a double-edged sword. It

both emboldens the blood, just as it narrows the mind. And when the drums of

war have reached a fever pitch and the blood boils with hate and the mind

has closed, the leader will have no need in seizing the rights of the

citizenry. Rather, the citizenry, infused with fear and blinded by

patriotism, will offer up all of their rights unto the leader and gladly so.

How do I know? For this is what I have done. And I am Caesar.”

- Julius Caesar

*****

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