fear, loathe or be stoked

Okay. So here’s the deal. I’ve moved all of my flights to allow myself a full two weeks in Thailand, leaving tomorrow. That means I have exactly FIVE days at home between my return from Asia and my departure to Australia. Translation: Four straight months of on-the-road traveling and not a single second to evolve my journal bullet points into blog form. So I’m hoping quick updates and a gig of digital photos will suffice solbeam.com while the deeper reflections cook at a slow boil until futher notice.

I will be in transit over the next few days and know I’m already behind on tales of Japan and Korea. My band-aid for this sore is to organize and provide captions for the 246 pictures I currently have in my albums…

South Korea Photo Album & Captions

Japan Photo Album & Captions

Thailand Photo Album

(Click Back — Coming *very* Soon….)

*****

Okay. We’ve got a date with 16,000 travelers at the legendary full moon party on Ko Pha-Ngan. (Think Leonardo DiCaprio in “The Beach”). I’M really not sure if I should fear, loath or be stoked for this event.

But isn’t that what travel is about? Finding out for yourself?

So here we go!

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Q & A on teaching in english in Asia

A massive monsoon just hit Korea (see above) and due to this and the fact that the second session of camp was mysteriously curtailed to a roster of 25 children, I have the found the time to compose a few thoughts on my experience and research on teaching English in Asia. I think the best way to approach the issue is just to address a few of the questions that were boggling MY mind when I made the decision to come to Korea.

(And of course, a disclaimer is in order stating that the opinions, observations and information presented here are only that of my own and that each person¡¯s experience teaching English abroad is completely circumstantial and the following information should surely only be used as a guide!)

Q: Do I have the credentials to teach English?

A: Typically, to teach English in Asia you need:

1. A Bachelors or Associates degree (and diploma & transcripts to prove it)

2. English must be your first language (schools almost always requesting only American & Canadian applicants/accents)

3. A valid passport

4. Sometimes there are age limits and photo requirements

5. In almost all cases, consent to commit to a one-year contract is necessary.

Q: What is the level of teaching?

A: It completely depends on who your students are. Some people teach at university level, some teach businessmen, some do private tutoring and some teach at a grade school level. Often, first time teachers start out at the Kindergarten level, where less experience (and more energy) is necessary (and pay is lower). I, personally, taught 4th and 5th graders coming from more privileged educations. Their level of English was that of an American 1st grader. Our curriculum was mostly composed of basic conversation and themes (numbers, colors, animals, expressions) and very basic sentence structuring. The kids can learn the grammer from the own Korean teachers – it is YOU that is hired to really develop their oral, conversational, listening comprehension and pronunciation skills.

Q: What are the children like?

A; Now I don¡¯t really have any prior formal experience teaching kids (except that of the volunteer work I did in Guatemala, but that is an ENTIRELY different essay). But judging by the jaw-dropping I saw on the part of my fellow American-school-experienced teachers, I reckon that what I saw in my classroom should never be expected of any other classroom I may raise the chalk to. Our kids were obnoxiously courteous and respectful, abnormally eager to learn, and perfectly capable of sitting silently in small groups doing an activity without disturbance for two or more hours at a time. We had virtually no disciplinary problems. Please remember though, this is only my experience from a month camp, with Korean children, in the 12-13 year-old range. And any one of these facts could be a major contributing factor to the ease of the class.

Q: Do I have to create my own curriculum?

A: In almost all cases, NO. Any well-organized and accredited school will almost SURELY provide you with a complete and comprehensive curriculum with instructions on how and what to teach. Be sure to ask this question when interviewing. Raise an eyebrow to any school that assumes you will have this responsibility. BUT, understand that you WILL have to think creatively to adapt supplied curriculum to the needs of your students. And the ability to improvise on the spot and ¡°wing-it¡± are claimed by many experienced teachers to be ¡°essential¡± classroom teaching ¡°skills.¡±

Q: How much money can I make?

A: This depends primarily on what COUNTRY you choose to teach in. From my research it seems that Korea, Japan and Taiwan pay the highest salaries. Japan, however, is an outrageously expensive country, and a large portion of your income will inevitably be consumed by costs of living. Taiwan and Thailand have lower pay rates, but are more desirable destinations with less demand for teachers.

It would be relatively easy for me to find a fine teaching position here in Korea right now (had I not other adventures awaiting). The camp I am currently working at offered 2.5 million Won (over $2,000 US dollars) a month, including paying for all my expenses (food and lodging). That¡¯s a lot of money — especially for less than 20 teaching hours a week. But I¡¯d be living with only three other English teachers in a secluded camp that¡¯s quite far from the city and most of civilization. If I chose to take a position in Seoul however, even though I might have to pay for rent and food, I estimate that in one year I would be depositing no less than $15,000 US into my savings account (which in my book, equates to roughly two years of carefree world traveling). But it snows in Korea. A lot. For me, that¡¯s a tradeoff I¡¯m not really willing to make. As you can see, the number of factors involved in these personal decisions are infinite and must be in accordance to personal tastes.

Also, in regards to costs, almost all schools involve some kind of bonus/payment system based on a one-year contract. Many will refund you the cost of your airline ticket AFTER you have completed your one-year contract. Often times a ¡°completion bonus¡± will also be offered at the end of your term. The objective of this system is to provide incentives that reward fulfilling the year contract (and heavily discourage anyone from leaving early). I HIGHLY recommend asking for a reference (preferably an English teacher currently working there) from any school that you consider working for in order to confirm the validity of the contract and those that have proposed it.

Higher salary brackets apply to those who have completed higher education beyond a Bachelor¡¯s degree, those with ESL training/teaching certification, and those who have formal teaching experience in general.

Q: What¡¯s Asia like?

A: What are the Americas like? This question is clearly too complicated to answer in a paragraph. Do your research. Read up on those countries that interest you online or in travel guides/books. Check out the message board postings on LonelyPlanet.com (the ¡°Thorn Tree¡±) or Dave¡¯s ESLcafe.com to read about personal experiences or get in contact with people who have actually been-and-done-that-English-teaching-thing in the country of your consideration.

Q: How much time do I work?

A: This varies by country and school. Expect to work anywhere between 15 – 40 hours. I¡¯m told by experienced ESL teachers to never accept a position that requires of you more than 20 teaching hours a week.

Q: Can I travel while I¡¯m there?

A: Most contracts seem to allow a minimum of 10 days of vacation. It is rumored that many of these MUST be taken during the Chinese New Year (in February). Some school offer many more weeks of vacation, but in general, I *personally* would NOT expect to be able to have much time to travel outside of the country (and that is what the savings account is for, eh?).

Q: Will I feel alienated or isolated living in such a foreign culture?

A: I can only speak of my immediate experiences in S. Korea. The Korean people are the most kind, courteous, hospitable, honest and genuinely caring people I have ever encountered in all my travels. Only here can you actually leave your backpack in the train station, walk 20 feet away into a store to buy a drink, and have complete and total confidence that it will still be there when you return. Only here, will a busy bus driver pull over to give you walking directions. Only here, will a bank teller walk you seven blocks to the terminal, buy your ticket, and make sure you get on the right bus. Only here will the taxi driver INSIST that you keep the change and reject any offer of tip. Only here, can you walk through dark, back alleyways and never ONCE glance over your shoulder or question your safety. Only here, will you be stopped in the street just to be welcomed into the country. No fear of violence. No fear of scandal. Just respect and peace. It sounds absurd, I know. I don¡¯t understand it. But perhaps more importantly is that now that I see it, I turn around — and it¡¯s the REST of the world that seems absurd. The Koreans are obsessed with taking care of guests to their country. And better hosts, I¡¯m sure, don¡¯t exist. But the language barrier is obviously extreme and Koreans seem *suspiciously but rightfully* hesitant about letting ALL their guards down to foreigners. So while you may be treated as nothing less than royalty, expect to put some serious time in if you are seeking an in-depth and ¡°real¡± understanding of the culture and people.

Q: Will there be other Westerners there?

A: Very likely. Not only will you probably quickly find and befriend other English teachers, but often times, if the school provides free accommodation, you will also be sharing an apartment with these same people. There are thousands of foreign English teachers throughout Asia. In major cities, it is not rare at all to step through double doors downtown and feel like you¡¯ve just been transported into a busy bar in California or New York (which can be either welcoming OR overwhelming).

Q: Would I be able to live an entire year there?

A: For you? I don¡¯t know. That is for you to decide. It depends of countless variables that I could never forecast. For me? Yes. From my experience here in Korea, I have determined that I could certainly teach English in Taiwan or Thailand for a year. It was a reassuring and happy decision to add this option to my ever-growing ¡°Opportunities Abroad¡± list.

Q: Where do I find a job?

A: There are an unlimited amount of teaching positions posted online. TeachAboad.com and Dave¡¯s ESLcafe.com are popular and powerful resources. You can also go through a placement agency (for a fee) if you¡¯re uncomfortable with making the arrangements yourself, prefer a little bit of hand-holding or want assurance of contract. If you¡¯re comfortable with your travel, bargaining and teaching skills, the best way to assure the highest salary and best contract is to just GO to the country and do all the research and interviewing yourself (skipping the middleman and his ¡°finder¡¯s fee¡±). The high season for recruiting is in the summer months and schools often times like to ¡°train¡± teachers in the summer so that they have some kind of experience before the school year technically begins.

Q: What happens if I hate it?

A: You can leave. You forfeit your right to all your future wages, bonuses and compensation for flight tickets – but you CAN leave. (Although, no one will tell you this.) But it really shouldn¡¯t be considered an option. The decision to sign a year contract should be thought out thoroughly. Make sure your motives are correct. If you don¡¯t like children or teaching or are just looking for a way to ¡°get out¡± or make a lot of money, this is not a good option. This is a serious commitment and responsibility – not just to yourself and your school, but also to your potential students.

Q: What¡¯s the difference between working at a camp and at a school?

A: A GREAT way (as I have discovered) to figure out if teaching English in Asia is an option suited to you, is to work at an English immersion camp first. This is a short-term commitment that will usually pay for your flight tickets upfront (in exchange for less actual monetary compensation). During the session, you will quickly realize if you have the energy, skills and desire to make a more serious commitment to teaching English. Additionally, you will have the time and opportunity to make fantastic contacts in the business to assure yourself an ideal contract, working conditions and salary. The camp that I worked at is brand new and will be offering both summer and winter sessions for years to come. I will provide contact information for interested applicants for the Winter camp session once it becomes available.

Q: Do I really have what it takes to do this?

A: Do NOT reject this opportunity because you feel insecure about your knowledge of the English language, don¡¯t know how to write a curriculum or don¡¯t have any experience standing in front of a class with a piece of chalk.

It¡¯s more important to ask yourself these questions; Do you really enjoy kids? Do you have a lot of energy? Are you eager to learn? Are you eager to teach? Are you comfortable with taking on the responsibility and commitment? Are you open-minded? Can you assess a situation (or class) and think up creative ways of moving forward? Can you improvise when step-by-step instructions are not provided? Are you comfortable adapting to new environments? Are you a person of good disposition in general?

Make sure you analyze both your motives and personal goals of taking on such a responsibility. If you can find integrity and quality in your motives and can answer yes to the questions above, you will probably, as I have, find teaching English in Asia an extremely valuable and exciting opportunity to travel the world, learn about another culture, challenge yourself, meet new life-long friends and buff up your savings account all at the same time.

Hope that answers some of your questions. If you have more, feel free to send them to me and I¡¯ll address them here. Cheers! sol

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a question of fun…

*Let’s try this again with a little VISUAL….*

Am I having FUN?!

Well, let¡¯s see. Are polite, creative and sweet students fun?

Is Gin and Tonic in a can fun?

Is watching Korean women in costume doing traditional dances fun?

Is being approached on the street by strangers with offerings of boarding, beer and friendship fun? Are fireworks fun?

Are swimming pools fun? Are dragon flies by the bazillions fun?

Are dance parties fun? Are weekend trips to the 3rd largest city in the world fun? Is soaking naked in a natural hot spring for hours with a view overlooking the town fun? Is watching performances of men standing on razor blades fun?

Is being treated like royalty by your BOSS fun? Is beer in vending machines fun?

Are chopsticks fun? Is communicating to locals with pictionary and charades fun? Are twins fun?

Are soccer, badminton, obstacle courses, dance contests and camp fires fun?

Is ordering from a menu that is ONLY in Korean letters fun?

Is living in a house with twenty other intrepid and adventure seeking young travelers fun? Is learning the Korean World Cup fight song and dance fun? Are playing limbo, face painting and singing Karaoke fun?

Are kids crying because they are so sad to say goodbye to you fun (or at least sweet)? Are squirt gun fights fun? Is figuring out the Korean Subway system fun? Is eating silk worms fun?

Are free tickets across the world fun? Is getting PAID to do everything listed above FUN?

I don’t know. *shrugs* Am I having fun?

*winks*

SEE ALL NEW KOREA PICTURES

or take a sneak peak at the developing JAPAN album!

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but are you having fun?

A friend just wrote me, ¡°but are you having fun?¡±

An apology might be due, for sometimes the hilarity and happiness of my experiences get lost somewhere between my thoughts and the keyboard.

Am I having FUN?!

Well, let¡¯s see. Are polite, creative and sweet students fun? Are Gin and Tonic in cans fun? Is watching Korean women in costume doing traditional dances fun? Is being approached on the street by strangers with offerings of boarding, beer and friendship fun? Are fireworks fun? Are swimming pools fun? Are dance parties fun? Are weekend trips to the 3rd largest city in the world fun? Is soaking naked in a natural hot spring for hours in a pool with a view overlooking the town fun? Is watching performances of men standing on razor blades fun? Are playing limbo, face painting and singing Karaoke fun? Is being treated like royalty by your BOSS fun? Is beer in vending machines fun? Are chopsticks fun? Is communicating to locals with pictionary and charades fun? Are soccer, badminton, obstacle courses, dance contests and camp fires fun? Are twins fun? Is ordering from a menu that is ONLY in Korean letters fun? Is living in a house with twenty other intrepid and adventure seeking young travelers fun? Is learning the Korean World Cup fight song and dance fun? Are kids crying because they are so sad to say goodbye to you fun (or at least sweet). Are squirt gun fights fun? Is figuring out the Korean Subway system fun? Are free tickets across the world fun? Is getting PAID to do everything listed above FUN?

So. Yes. Yes. Yes. Yes!!! I¡¯m having the time of my life! An experience I *now* can¡¯t even imagine my life being complete without.

And one last question…

Is going to Japan in between camp sessions fun?

*taps watch*

Gotta run. I have a FERRY to catch.

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Excerpt from My Korean-English Translation Dictionary

Excerpt from My Korean-English Translation Dictionary

American Dream Academy: Actual name of a camp in South Korea that recruits naive American college graduates to create, organize and facilitate the activities and academic curriculum of 200-500 eleven thru thirteen year-olds. In-the-dark-recruitees quickly realize that if they don¡¯t run the camp – no one will. In the case that there are hard-working, creative and initiative-taking individuals within the group, these persons will conceptualize and create all camp activities, buy all sports equipment, plan and prepare all art projects, write up all academic curriculum and organize the general rotation of activities/classes of the camp for 14 hours a day, six days a week. Although initial frustration is unavoidable on the part of the recruitees, the satisfaction of successfully attacking and completing the mission is like a glass of icy lemonade in the shade of a heat wave.

(Site of the American Dream Academy)

Nap Time: In the wake of a S. Korean heat wave, 200 hot kids become 200 sleepy kids. When the little darlings failed to lift their heavy heads after ¡°heads up 7 up¡± was called, suspicion arose. When they remained in such comatose positioning after repeated shaking and whistle blowing, the ¡°big wigs¡± (see definition below) were shocked into action at such an atrocious act of disrespect in Asian classroom culture. 1.5 hours of ¡°nap time¡± were instantly incorporated into the schedule – and it is only in thanks to this blessed break that this blog comes to you.

(My Kids….*that are napping as I type.*)

Big Wigs: Any Korean male on campus, over the age of 50, who lacks the ability to mumble a single syllable of English, and who¡¯s only evident job (according to American teachers) is that of spending hours hunting down and swatting flies. In their *24 hours of* free time, their favorite hobby appears to be lurking over the shoulder of female American teachers using the computer in their office where all their *fly-swatting* duties are carried out. Based on the observed head-to-floor bowing that is made in their presence, it is safe to assume that these men have obnoxious amounts of money and authority.

Whistle: The difference between 20 unruly, rambunctious Korean kids and 20 seated and silent Korean kids.

¡°Millhouse¡±: 1. The next-door neighbor of fictional anime character Bart Simpson. 2. One of many unlucky ¡°English names¡± bestowed upon an 11-year old Korean boy who happens to be a student in the class of two 25-year old American boys.

Sleeping Subway Guard: See Illustration

&nbsp&nbsp

Dirty DARE Accepted (and Successfully Completed): See Illustration

Kim Chi: Cabbage (and sometimes other mixed raw veggies) marinated or pickled in a Korean chili paste. Absolute staple of the Korean diet. Served at breakfast, lunch and dinner. Nominated as ¡°favorite food¡± by over 30% of Korean kids. The subject of 60% of jokes made by American teachers. After a week of camp, it is highly likely that starvation will become preferable to another serving of sticky rice and ¡°Camp Style¡± Kim Chi.

Breakfast: The one meal a day teachers are provided with in ¡°American style.¡±

Cereal: 1. Staple of American style breakfast. 2. Staple of American Teachers¡¯ Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner diet.

Kindness: Taken to mind boggling levels by the Korean people. The following three examples all took place within the same three hours on an outing to Seoul (tied for the 3rd largest city in the world): 1. While lost, trying to find our hostel, pulling out maps and looking confused, a Korean woman who spoke English approached us and insisted on helping. She looked at our directions, found a phone number for the hostel, called the owner, got directions and actually tried to walk us ALL the way there. 2. After we insisted that we could walk the blocks alone and progressed in the correction direction, a man stopped us. He was the owner of the hostel and was looking for us to make sure we were on the right track. 3. Upon slicing her foot after a courageous escape from a dare (see above definition) a man who noticed the blood on our companion, escorted us to a drug store, insisted on bandaging the faulty foot and paying for the supplies. He then took us to a restaurant, bought us a round of beer and appetizers, told us stories for an hour, paid the bill, gave us his phone number, took a bow and disappeared.

Hooker Hill: Perhaps the dirtiest and most dangerous street in Intaewon, Seoul. Location of the LAST room available to travelers who arrive in town at 10pm on a Saturday night. Lined with young and old Korean girls making propositions in limited and well rehearsed English to American military personnel.

(Me & Nick Hookering on Hooker Hill)

American Military Personnel on Hooker Hill: Gangs of highly intoxicated men in American flag t-shirts and cowboy hats, slurring return propositions at the hookers while throwing empty glass beer bottles down the hill. The only time I feared for my immediate safely in S. Korea. The most horrendous ¡°Ugly American¡± spectacle I have ever witnessed. Possible the most embarrassed I¡¯ve ever felt to be an ¡°American.¡±

Chlorine: Undefined in the Korean dictionary until the swimming pool turned unnatural shades of green and had to be drained and refilled TWICE. After repeated and adamant requests on the part of the American counselors, the chemical was admitted into both the dictionary AND the pool. (yea!)

Karaoke: An absolute undying passion of the Korean young folk. So much that a machine (TV & Microphone) is located in the hotel, in the gym and EVEN in the school BUS. An important note is that Koreans are considerable better at this activity. It took 15 minutes for 200 kids to pull 20 chair-hugging English counselors onto the stage. Strangely enough, after only one performance of ¡°I¡¯m a Barbie Girl Living in a Barbie World¡± there was no encore or additional musical requests of the Americans.

*** New pictures were added to the KOREA Photogallery this week.***

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reading korean

A: 13 Hours

The question, Bob, is “How many hours does it take to fly from LA to Korea at 550 miles/hour?”

But YEEE-ha! I’m here and from the looks of it, this month is gonna be a wicked ride!

I’m currently lodged up with 20 fellow globe-trottin’, adventure-seekin’, passport-fillin’ travelers and we have some serious adventures ahead….

My camera is loaded and the ports are all there….BUT I CAN’T READ THE KOREAN CHARACTERS/INSTRUCTIONS TO DOWNLOAD THE DRIVERS OR ACCESS THE STINKIN’ CAMERA! I just wasn’t counting on a Korean interface…but be patient, ’cause if there’s a way, you can bet your Korean Kim Chee I’m gonna find it!

This is just a quick update that I’m alive and thrilled to be so. The camp is getting hooked up with internet access in a few days and the next minute I have after 10pm or before 6am (the ONLY hours I’m NOT working as a camp counselor)…I’ll be on the PC with a more elaborate address.

Until then, please don’t take it personal — because I’m not answering ANYTHING in my inbox *taps her watch* and a quick shout out to any of my boys in Thailand…..I’m rerouting my return through Bankok and you BETTER be ready for me!!!

Um. Yeah. That’s enough exclamation points for one blog.

*!!!!*

(..okay…just a couple more couldn’t hurt.)

TAXI’s here! I’m out!

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update

I have SO much to say and so little time!

The 48-hours-to-Korea-countdown started this morning….which means it’s officially time for me to freak out. I haven’t even begun to pack. The good news is that I finally got my Korean visa in the mail (all that work for this faded little stamp?!)…

And a jiggy-worthy realization; with the acquisition of the Korea stamp — I have actually FILLED my first passport.

Even grander than that news…and perhaps some of the grandEST news to hit solbeam.com is still to come…

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supersol

“SuperHeroSol”

It’s an extremely talented piece but I’ll exhale right now over the chance of finding a spot next to the Family Circus in the Sunday strips (although had I bod like THAT I’m certain I could find work in another kind of strip!).

Thank you Will!

And elsewhere in the European world, in his own blazing pursuit of the unknown, dreW has found a sign befitting our super hero Sol…

On the homefront however, I’m feeling a bit less than “heroic” or “super” as I, in close proximity of my departure date, begin to frazzle at the idea of being responsible for the education of twenty 13-year old Korean kids. As I stradle the quote on the splash page of this site (“What would you do if you weren’t afraid?”) and engage in a struggle to strangle that anxiousness, on the side I busy myself with preparations and packing….

Not Pictured: *Tisk-tisk-ing* saleswoman who apparently didn’t find my use of her window prop as amusing as I did.

10 Days ‘Till Take Off….and counting!

*tick, tick, tick*

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